How To Build A Worm Bin the Cheap and Easy Way
By Gaye Levy
Contributing Writer for Wake Up World
A couple of weeks ago I wrote about using worms to create compost. The official term for this is “Vermicomposting” and the great thing about it is that it is clean and tidy and does not take up a lot of space. For folks that have small yards or live in apartments, this is ideal. Plus, if need be, vermicomposting can even be done indoors. Imagine composting in on your porch, a deck or even in your laundry room!
Now that I have you excited about composting with worms – and specifically red worms – I would like to provide you with instructions for building the cheapest worm bin imaginable. It is built out of commonly available supplies and is so easy, even a novice handyman (handyperson?) can do it.
The Cheap and Easy Worm Bin
Here are the materials you will need to build your worm bin.
* Two 8 to 10 gallon plastic storage bins
* Drill (with 1/4″ and 1/16″ bits) for making drainage and ventilation holes
* About one pound of red wiggler worms
The bins should be opaque and not clear. This is because worms like to live in the dark and will not thrive if there is any light coming into their home.
Also, although you could use larger bins, they will be too doggone heavy to lift once they are full of nicely composted worm castings. Stick with the smaller 8 to 10 gallon size. These will set you back about $5 each.
Putting it all together:
1. Drill about twenty evenly spaced 1/4 inch holes in the bottom of each bin. These holes will provide drainage and allow the worms to crawl into the second bin when you are ready to harvest the castings.
2. Drill ventilation holes about 1 – 1 ½ inches apart on each side of the bin near the top edge using the 1/16 inch bit. Also drill about 30 small holes in the top of one of the lids.
Note: You are going to need to build two bins although in the beginning, only one will be used.
3. Prepare some nice bedding for the worms by shredding some newspaper into 1 inch strips. Worms need bedding that is moist but not soggy.
Moisten the newspaper by soaking it in water and then squeezing out the excess water. Easier still, fill a spray bottle with water and spritz the shredded newspaper until it is nice and damp. This might take a while because you will want to fluff it up as you go but it will prevent the worm bedding from getting too soggy.
4. Cover the bottom of the bin with 3 to 4 inches of the moist newspaper. Continue to fluff it up so that it is nice and airy. If you have any old leaves or leaf litter, that can be added also. Throw in a handful of dirt for “grit” to help the worms digest their food.
5. Add your worms to the bedding.
6. Cut a piece of cardboard to fit over the bedding, and get it wet. Then cover the bedding with the cardboard. Worms love cardboard and it will break down within months.
7. Place your bin in a well-ventilated area such as a laundry room, garage, balcony, under the kitchen sink, or outside in the shade. Place the bin on top of blocks or bricks or upside down plastic containers to allow for drainage. You can use the lid of the second bin as a tray to catch any moisture that may drain from the bin. This “worm tea” is a great liquid fertilizer that can be used right away on your indoor or outdoor plants.
8. Feed your worms slowly at first. As the worms multiply, you can begin to add more food. Gently bury the food in a different section of the bin each week, under the cardboard. The worms will follow the food scraps around the bin. Burying the food scraps will help to keep fruit flies away.
The Skinny on Worm Food
What do worms like to eat? Worms are vegetarians. They like green stuff mostly and absolutely no meat and no dairy. That means no bones, no grease and no anything with grease.
On the other hand, almost anything else that would normally go down the garbage disposal can go into your worm bin. Just don’t be surprised if you notice that some foods will be eaten faster than others. Worms have their preferences just like we do.
|Worms LOVE This Stuff
||Worms HATE This Stuff||Worms LIKE brown stuff too!|
|Breads & Grains||Dairy Products||Newspaper|
|Coffee grounds & filters||Meats||Leaves|
|Fruits & vegetables||Oils||Cardboard|
|Tea bags||Paper towels|
|Fruit & veggie peels||TP rolls|
|Rice & Pasta|
When the Worm Bin is Full
When the first bin is full and there are no recognizable food scraps left, it is time to split the bin so you can begin the harvest.
Place new bedding material in the second bin and place the bin directly on the compost surface of the first bin. Bury your food scraps to the bedding of the second bin. In one to two months, most of the worms will have moved to the second bin in search of food. (Remember those little drill holes we made at the onset?)
Now the first bin will contain (almost) worm free vermicompost. There may be a few straggler worms left in the first bin. These can be gently lifted out of the bin and placed in the new bin or you can simply add them to your garden along with the new compost.
If you don’t care about creating a second harvest down the road, you can skip the step where you split the bin. The worm population will adapt to the amount of space and food available and things will remain stable until you decide to remove the compost and begin the process all over again.
|Worms are dying or trying to escape||Too wet||Add more bedding|
|Too dry||Moisten bedding|
|Bedding is used up||Harvest your bin|
|Bin stinks!||Not enough air||Drill more ventilation holes|
|Too much food||Do not feed for 1-2 weeks|
|Too wet||Add more bedding|
|Fruit Flies||Exposed food||Bury food in bedding|
A Note About the Worms
Here in the Pacific Northwest, you can gather your own red worms. All you need to do is to put out a large piece of wet cardboard on your lawn or garden at night. The red worms live in the top 3 inches of organic material and like to come up and feast on the wet cardboard. In the morning, lift up cardboard to gather your red worms.
Elsewhere, or if you don’t have a lawn or suitable garden, you can purchase worms. Be sure to ask for “red wigglers”.
According to Chris Benedict, a Regional Extension Specialist at Washington State University, an earthworm can consume about 1/2 of its weight each day. He says, for example:
If your food waste averages 1/2 pound per day, you will need 1 pound of worms or a 2:1 ratio. There are roughly 500 worms in one pound. If you start out with less than one pound, don’t worry they multiply very quickly. Just adjust the amount that you feed them in accordance with the size of your worm population.
Check out Composting with Red Worms for lots more information about caring for your worms!
The Final Word
Imagine how easy it would be to create organic compost for your garden without having to trek to an obscure corner of your backyard in order to carry your food scraps to the compost bin. Instead, why not let red worms eat your food wastes? In a matter of months and not years, you will end up with one of the best soil amendments out there, namely worm castings.
My thanks to Chris Benedict who provided inspiration and gave me permission to use his ideas and his photos in this article. In addition, he has provided this link for building a more advanced, wooden worm bin: Build a Worm Compost Bin.
If your have not done so already, read Learn to Love Worms with Vermicomposting. And after that? My guess is that you will want to go out and get some materials so that you can build your own worm bin!
Enjoy your next adventure through common sense and thoughtful preparation!
Further articles by Gaye Levy
- Spices for the Survival Pantry
- Water: the Most Important Survival Basic
- 21 Home Remedies for a Toothache Emergency
- 7 Last Minute Prepping Items
- The Miracle of Tea Tree Oil: 80 Amazing Uses for Survival
- 26 Five-Minute Prepping Projects
- 10 Simple Steps Toward Self-Sufficiency
- Creating a Healing Garden: 9 Healing Herbs You Can Grow Yourself
About Gaye Levy
Gaye Levy, also known as the Survival Woman, grew up and attended school in the Greater Seattle area. After spending many years as an executive in the software industry, she started a specialized accounting practice offering contract CFO work to emerging high tech and service industries. She has now abandoned city life and has moved to a serenely beautiful rural area on an island in NW Washington State. She lives and teaches the principles of a sustainable and self-reliant lifestyle through her website at BackdoorSurvival.com.
At Backdoor Survival, Gaye speaks her mind and delivers her message of prepping with optimism and grace, regardless of the uncertain times and mayhem swirling around us.
If you have not done so already, please be sure to like Backdoor Survival on Facebook to be updated every time there is an awesome new article, news byte, or free survival, prepping or homesteading book on Amazon. In addition, when you sign up to receive email updates you will receive a free, downloadable copy of Gaye’s e-book The Emergency Food Buyer’s Guide.
“The glory of gardening: hands in the dirt, head in the sun, heart with nature. To nurture a garden is to feed not just the body, but the soul.” – Alfred Austin
Gardeners have been knowing for centuries that their pastime gives them joy and peace. Many people will say that gardening is stress therapy. There is even a group called the American Horticultural Therapy Association “committed to promoting and developing the practice of horticultural therapy as a unique and dynamic human service modality.”
As with so many things, science introduces us to the physical wonders behind what we already know on a subliminal level. There are two interesting pieces of research that give credence to the feeling that our bodies and souls are better off from gardening.
Researchers reported in the journal Neuroscience that contact with a soil bacteria called Mycobacterium vaccae triggers the release of serotonin in the brain. This type of serotonin acts on several different pathways including mood and learning. Lack of serotonin in the brains is related to depression.
So basically, the things we do as gardeners—working the soil, planting, mulching, and so forth—can really contribute to happiness. We ingest the bacteria by breathing or through broken skin. The simple act of children playing outside in the grass and dirt can be a natural way for them to reduce anxiety.
Read more at
Saturday, July 6, 2013
Tree Hugging Now Scientifically Validated
In a recently published book, Blinded by Science, the author Matthew Silverstone, proves scientifically that trees do in fact improve many health issues such as concentration levels, reaction times, depression, stress and other various forms of mental illness. He even points to research indicating a tree’s ability to alleviate headaches in humans seeking relief by communing with trees.
Sources and additional information:
HHA =Half hardy annual
P = Perennial
HB= Hardy biennial
HS= Hardy shrub
Cosmos (HHA) is an annual flower easily raised from seed. It’s also one of the very best for the bee. Grow it in groups, making the collection of pollen easier for the bees, who won’t have to fly as far to find their food. Cosmos grows 2-5ft tall, the majority reaching about 2ft. It’s from Mexico, so a half hardy annual. Plant out after all danger of frost has passed, and deadhead to keep them flowering continuously through the summer. These open, flat flowers will delight you as well as giving the bees a feast.
Aster (HHA) ‘Compostion’ or Michaelmass Daisies. Many modern hybrids have little or no pollen. easy to grow, colorful and late summer to autumn flowering, they provide food late in the season. Important if honeybees are to be well fed to get through the winter months.
Sunflowers (HA) are a great choice, available in many heights and colours to suit your garden space. Choose yellow or orange over red, which bees don’t like. Varieties exist now for the allergic gardener, containing no pollen. Obviously avoid these when wishing to attract bees.
Calendulas or marigolds (HA) are great for bees, especially the original single flowered pot marigold. Dead head regularly for a longer flowering period.
Primulas. (HP) The native primrose, (primula vulgaris), primulas of all kinds, even the drumstick ones are great early food for bees. Cowslips (primula veris) are also good members of this extensive family of perennial plants.
Rudbekia (HHA) are an extensive group of cone flowers from the aster family. A wide variety of heights, mostly available in yellows and oranges, sure to brighten your border and feed bees. There are also a few hardy perennial ones, of which ‘Goldsturn’ is my personal favourite. All are easy to grow from seed.
Scabious or cornflowers (HA), another aster family member, are mostly blue flowered and bees adore them. Dead-headed regularly, they’ll flower all summer long.
Lavender (HHS) There are plenty of lavenders to choose from, all needing plenty of sun and well drained soil, but they’ll reward you with plenty of fragrant flowers for cutting and drying. Just watch them get smothered in bees when they come into flower.
Bluebells (bulb) Another early food supply. Just a note of caution for UK growers. The native English bluebell in now under threat from the Spanish bluebell, which outcompetes and crosses with it. So please ensure you are planting the native bluebell to ensure you don’t endanger a bluebell woodland near you.
Hellebores (HP) The Christmas rose! A lovely flower to have in your garden from late winter to early spring, this plant will tolerate some shade and moist conditions, though not wet. When bees emerge from hibernation they need food fast. This one gives them a snack when there’s little else around.
Clematis (Perennial climber) The majority of clematis will provide pollen, and I’ve watched bees happily moving from flower to flower gathering their crop. Always plant clematis deeper than they were in the container, as this gives more protection against cleamits wilt. These plants are hungry and thirsty, so add good compost to the planting hole. They also like their roots in the cool and heads in the sun, so once planted I place either a thick mulch or a pile of stones or gravel around their roots, keeping them cool and conserving moisture.
Crocus (bulb) Early flowering, plenty to choose from, and planted in the autumn to flower year after year. These are great value and cheer me up as well as the bees!
Mint (HP), especially water mint, is loved by bees. It’s great in your cooking, too. Easy to grow, it can be a bit of a thug, so either grow it in a container or prevent its escape around the garden by burying a bucket (with holes in the bottom for drainage) and plant your mint into that.
Rosemary (HHS) A mediterranean herb, rosemary likes well drained soild and full sun. It flowers around April/May. A great culinary herb, bees will take advantage of the pollen as long as you prune it correctly. This is best done straight after flowering, as most of the flowers will appear on new wood. Don’t prune rosemary back to old, bare wood as these are not likely to regrow. Depending on where you live and soil conditions, rosemary can be short lived, so take some cuttings each year so you can replace the old plant should it dsie or become too leggy.
Thyme (H to HHS)) There are now quite a few varieties available, tasting slightly different to each other eg lemon thyme. However, I’ve noticed that the wild thyme (thymus serpyllum) attracts a lot of bee visitors and tends to flower more profusely. But they are all worth growing. Give them the same growing conditions as rosemary and lavender.
Hebe (HH-HS) This extensive group of shrubs have wonderful flowers for bees. Plenty of pollen, all on one flower and plenty of flowers on one shrub. They vary in height, are mosly blue or pink and tolerate most soils. They dislike too much wet, so a well drained soil is best. Water well, though, until established.
Borage, the bee herb. (HA) Borage is blue flowered, simple to grow and in fact one type grows wild in the UK, though originally from Syria. Easy, prolific and the bees love it.
Echinacea, the cone flower. (HP) Now available in a variety of colours, all of which will attract bees. Echinacea Tennesseensis will attract birds, bees and butterflies.
Mignotette. There are HA, HHA and Perennial members of this family. They are sweetly scented and will attract and feed your bees, especially Reseda lutea.
Thrift, or Sea Pink (HP) is a great plant for a rock garden, trough or wall. Holding its bright pink flowers well above the grass-like foliage, it will cheer your garden and make the bees come back for more! Give it well drained condiitons and lots of sun.
Sedums are also excellent plants for rock gardens and walls. There are many to choose from, but avoid Sedum Spectabilis Autumn Joy if you’re planting for bees. Biting stonecrop and English stonecrop (sedums acre and anglicum). are natives, and great for bees.
Sweet Williams (Dianthus barbatus) (HB) are fantastic flowers for bees. An old cottage garden favourite, bees are attracted to the pink or white flowers and we love the perfume! They are members of the dianthus family, as are Pinks and Carna
A DVD which gives a detailed summation of the above is:
Reconnecting to Nature through Spiritual Permaculture by
Dr Leonid Sharashkin
In this insightful presentation, met with a standing ovation at the 2007 Earth Transformation Conference, Editor of Anastasia and the Ringing Cedars Series reveals the potential of Russia’s permaculture gardening movement to change our world.
(Note from Yvonne: We might be able to source this DVD in South Africa)
If you’ve already been through an economic collapse, you might know a thing or two about how to feed your family with little money. More importantly, you might know how to do it without pesticides, herbicides, fungicides, and GMO seed. On a total of about 20 million acres managed by over 35 million Russian families, Russians are carrying on an old-world technique, which we Americans might learn from. They are growing their own organic crops – and it’s working.
According to some statistics, they grow 92% of the entire countries’ potatoes, 77% of its vegetables, 87% of its fruit, and feed 71% of the entire population from privately owned, organic farms or house gardens all across the country. These aren’t huge Agro-farms run by pharmaceutical companies; these are small family farms and less-than-an-acre gardens.
A recent report from Agro-ecology and the Right to Food says that organic and sustainable small-scale farming could double food production in the parts of the world where hunger is the biggest issue. Within five to 10 years we could see a big jump in crop cultivation. It could also take the teeth out of GMO business in the US.
“Farmed seafood has certain advantages over wild fish in meeting modern demand. For a global marketplace that demands increasingly predictable products—uniform-sized fillets available year-round, free of the vagaries of weather or open-ocean fishing—fish farming delivers this predictability. Farms are also becoming more productive, raising fish at a lower cost and expanding the potential market.” (Brian Halwell, Farming Fish for the Future).
Unfortunately, not all of us want to utilize organic farming. Purchasing 500,000 shares of Monsanto stock in 2012, Bill Gates is just one key figure who argues that GMOs are an absolute necessity in order to fight global starvation. Of course along with ‘saving the world from starvation’, GMO crops also bring along a large number of unwanted health and environmental effects. This isn’t even considering the fact that long term, we truly don’t know what kind of impact this will have on the earth on a major scale. Though we do know once everything is GMO, it will be virtually impossible to go back to a natural world.
Check out NaturalSociety’s YouTube Channel for some recent videos on the March Against Monsanto event occurring in Philadelphia, PA. The videos offer some educational information along with a look at how people everywhere reject Monsanto and genetically modified organisms. Say goodbye to GMOs. We don’t need them.
“We won’t solve hunger and stop climate change with industrial farming on large plantations,” says Olivier De Schutter.
Originally published March 31 2013
CO2 myth bust:
Why we need more carbon dioxide to grow food and forests
….. by Mike Adams, the Health Ranger, NaturalNews Editor
(NaturalNews) If you talk to the global warming crowd, carbon dioxide — CO2 — is the enemy of mankind. Any and all creation of CO2 is bad for the planet, we’re told, and its production must be strictly limited in order to save the world.
But what if that wasn’t true? What if CO2 were actually a planet-saving nutrient that could multiply food production rates and feed the world more nutritious, healthy plants?
CO2 is a vital nutrient for food crops
As it turns out, CO2 is desperately needed by food crops, and right now there is a severe shortage of CO2 on the planet compared to what would be optimum for plants. Greenhouse operators are actuallybuying carbon dioxide and injecting it into their greenhouses in order to maximize plant growth.
The science on this is irrefutable. As just one example, the Ontario Ministry of Agriculture and Food says:
CO2 increases productivity through improved plant growth and vigour. Some ways in which productivity is increased by CO2 include earlier flowering, higher fruit yields, reduced bud abortion in roses, improved stem strength and flower size. Growers should regard CO2 as a nutrient.
If you want to understand why CO2 is an essential nutrient for food crop growth, check out this informative slide show. It explains that “CO2 may be repidly depleted during crop production” daylight hours, because the plants pull all the CO2 out of the air and use it in photosynthesis.
The CO2 found in modern-day atmosphere is 340ppm. But food crops would grow far faster if the concentration of CO2 were closer to 1000ppm, or roughly 300% higher than current levels. In fact, most greenhouse plant production causes a “CO2 depletion” to happen, shutting down photosynthesis and limiting food production. As the “Carbon Dioxide in Greenhouses” fact sheet explains:
Ambient CO2 level in outside air is about 340 ppm by volume. All plants grow well at this level but as CO2 levels are raised by 1,000 ppm photosynthesis increases proportionately resulting in more sugars and carbohydrates available for plant growth. Any actively growing crop in a tightly clad greenhouse with little or no ventilation can readily reduce the CO2 level during the day to as low as 200 ppm.
Thus, greenhouse plants are “running out” of CO2. They are starving for it. And when you add it to food crops, you get higher yields, improved taste, shorter flowering times, enhanced pest resistance and other benefits.
Why we should pump carbon dioxide into greenhouses
This brings up an obvious answer for what to do with all the CO2 produced by power plants, office buildings and even fitness centers where people exhale vast quantities of CO2. The answer is to build adjacent greenhouses and pump the CO2 into the greenhouses.
Every coal-fired power plant, in other words, should have a vast array of greenhouses surrounding it. Most of what you see emitted from power plant smokestacks is water vapor and CO2, both essential nutrients for rapid growth of food crops. By diverting carbon dioxide and water into greenhouses, the problem of emissions is instantly solved because the plants update the CO2 and use it for photosynthesis, thus “sequestering” the CO2 while rapidly growing food crops. It also happens to produce oxygen as a “waste product” which can be released into the atmosphere, (slightly) upping the oxygen level of the air we breathe.
This is a brilliant solution because humans want to live on a world with low CO2 that supports frozen ice caps in order to keep ocean water levels low, but they want to eat a volume of food that requires high CO2 for production. The answer is to concentrate CO2 into greenhouses where food production is multiplied by CO2 nutrition.
I’ll bet you’ve never heard Al Gore talk about CO2 as “nutrition.” He declares it a pollutant and wants to tax you for producing it. But CO2 is actually a key nutritive gas for food crops. Without carbon dioxide, we would all have starved to death by now.
Shutting down power plants to destroy
America’s power infrastructure
The U.S. government’s solution to power plant emissions, however, is to just shut down coal-fired power plants, causing rolling blackouts across the USA, especially during hot summer days. The EPA has forced hundreds of power plants to shut down across the USA, achieving a loss of power infrastructure that vastly exceeds what would even be possible by an enemy invasion of high-altitude warplanes dropping bombs.
The EPA, under the excuse of “saving the planet,” is destroying America’s power infrastructure and leading our nation into a third-world scenario where power availability is dicey and unsustained. It seems to be just one part of the overall plan to gut America’s economy, offshore millions of jobs, put everybody on welfare and destroy small businesses.
But what if we harnessed coal-fired power plants instead of shutting them down? What if we used them as “CO2 generators” that fed CO2 into vast greenhouse operations that produced organic, high-growth foods that could feed the nation? Coal-fired power plants can produce both electricity and food nutrition at the same time.
Better yet, if you combine this concept with aquaponics, you get simultaneous production of plants and fish while using no soil, no GMOs and one-tenth the water of conventional agriculture.
See, the solutions to all our problems already exist. The only reason we are suffering as a nation is because political puppets try to brainwash us into believing complete falsehoods like, “carbon dioxide is a dangerous pollutant” or “the people don’t need healthy foods; they need medications and vaccines.” When societies believe falsehoods, they crumble and collapse.
That’s where America is headed, of course. And it’s all being accelerated by deceptive bureaucrats who want to convince you that growing real food is bad and we should all be punished for exhaling carbon dioxide, an essential nutrient for food crops. Carbon dioxide is not the enemy it’s been made out to be. It’s actually plant nutrition that helps regrow rainforests, food crops and wetlands. In fact, higher CO2 levels in the atmosphere would make the planet more lush and abundant in terms of plant life, forests, trees and food crops.
All content posted on this site is commentary or opinion and is protected under Free Speech. Truth Publishing LLC takes sole responsibility for all content. Truth Publishing sells no hard products and earns no money from the recommendation of products. NaturalNews.com is presented for educational and commentary purposes only and should not be construed as professional advice from any licensed practitioner. Truth Publishing assumes no responsibility for the use or misuse of this material. For the full terms of usage of this material, visit http://www.NaturalNews.com/terms.shtml
Horticultural Uses for Vinegar
Vinegar can also be used to control weeds in your garden. According to Garrett:
To keep the weeds out of a decorative or utility gravel area, the best approach is to design them out from the beginning or use organic products later to kill the weeds. Salt, toxic herbicides and bleach should never be used because they contaminate the soil long term. They also leach into the water stream. To head off the problem, install the gravel in a thick layer – 6 to 8 inches after scraping away all grasses and weeds.
Any weeds that grow through the gravel can be sprayed and killed with a mix of 10 percent pickling vinegar mixed with 2 ounces orange oil and 1 teaspoon liquid soap or you can use commercial organic herbicides. Vinegar sprays can also be used to kill weeds in the cracks in sidewalks and driveways. The best choice for herbicide use is 10 percent white vinegar made from grain alcohol. It should be used full strength. Avoid products that are made from 99 percent glacial acetic acid. This material is a petroleum derivative. Natural vinegars such those made from fermenting apples have little herbicidal value.
1 gallon of 10 percent (100 grain) vinegar
Add 1 ounce orange oil or d-limonene
Add 1 tablespoon molasses (optional – some say it doesn’t help)
1 teaspoon liquid soap or other surfactant (I use Bio Wash)
Do not add water
Shake well before each spraying and spot spray weeds. Keep the spray off desirable plants. This spray will injure any plant it touches. This natural spray works best on warm to hot days. Vinegar sprayed on the bases of trees and other woody plants will not hurt the plant at all. This technique was first learned about by spraying the suckers and weeds growing around the bases of grapevines.
If your water is alkaline, add 1 tablespoon of 50-grain (5 percent) natural apple cider vinegar to each gallon of water to improve the quality of the water for potted plants and bedding. This doesn’t have to be done with every watering, though it wouldn’t hurt. This technique is especially helpful when trying to grow acid-loving plants such as gardenias, azaleas, and dogwoods. A tablespoon of vinegar per gallon added to the sprayer when foliar feeding lawns, shrubs, flowers, and trees is also highly beneficial, especially where soil or water is alkaline. The other horticultural use for vinegar is in the watering can.
And to BAKING SODA ….
How to Make a Baking Soda Garden Spray
by Madiha |
Gardeners strive hard to make their gardens look beautiful but this calls for special care! A long living and beautiful garden is the one that is well maintained and maintenance means that the gardener is spraying the garden regularly. Many gardeners prefer to use organic sprays to control insects’ attacks especially when they have grown vegetables or fruits in their garden. Enriched with fungicidal properties , Baking Soda is a widely used organic spray which is safe for domestic gardens. Very simple to make and very effective at the same time, this white soluble compound can be used as a protecting spray for plants and is meant to fight against insects, powdery mildew and fungal diseases.
Sodium bicarbonate, the chemical name of baking soda, comes in powder form and is easily available in the markets.
In order to prepare the baking soda spray for the garden, you will need few things including:
Baking Soda (1 tablespoon) -
Small Bucket with Water (1/2 liter) -Stirring Rod/ Spatula / Spoon -
Vegetable Oil (1 tablespoon) -
Liquid Soap (1 tablespoon) -
Sprinkling Bottle -
4 Steps For How to Make a Baking Soda Garden Spray
1First of all add stated amount of baking soda and vegetable oil in a bowl. Now pour over warm water and stir with the help of stirring rod.
2As you stir, add liquid washing soap and keep on stirring and leave it to cool down.
3After about 15 to 20 minutes, fix fennel on the neck of the bottle and pour the prepared solution into it.
4Your garden spraying Brew is ready.
Read more at: How to Make a Baking Soda Garden Spray
- Household Items With Uncommon Uses (987ampradio.cbslocal.com)
- Safe Green DIY Cleaning – Part 1 (sprayfoamdirect.com)
- How to Control Weeds in Flower Beds (proflowers.com)
- 11 Unusual Household Uses For Food Items That Will Save You Money (mint.com)
- Safe Green DIY Cleaning – Part 2 (sprayfoamdirect.com)
- A Dozen Homemade Organic Garden Remedies (hopegardens.wordpress.com)
- 19 Incredible Uses For Baking Soda, Dryer Sheets And Beer (businessinsider.com)
- Raw Apple Cider Vinegar, Natures Wonder Food!! (webndbitesoflife.wordpress.com)
- Apple Cider Vinegar- Cure for Everything?? (cristalcurrier.wordpress.com)
Confirmation of the wonderful
BACK TO EDEN
method of growing food
I can vouch absolutely for this – I started practising these methods on
the farm I share about a year and a half ago and the benefits
are exactly as described!
It shows how destructive and unsustainable some conventional
farming methods actually are,kl not to mention being really labour intensive too!
Adding LIFE to your years and years to your life!
I had the most amazing experience yesterday to be the guest of Paul Gautschi at his garden in Sequim, Wa. Paul is the gardener behind the film Back to Eden, which you can find at www.backtoedenfilm.com. The food coming out of his garden is spectacular and the taste is beyond this world.
Everything was sweet. We first tasted some Kale (from last year!!!) that was starting to flower. He broke off some tops for us and said to try it. I was amazed how sweet and moist it was. I gobbled up a ton more. His spinach as picture perfect, like from a food blog photo shoot. Green and shiny and huge for only being weeks old. Again, sweet. What amazed me the most was the asparagus. Just pick off a shoot and chow down the sweetest, most tender asparagus I’ve ever had. His food would make eating raw soooooo easy!!! I can’t even stand to think about the fact I’ll have to eat farmers market food until my garden is bigger. It was that good. You could feel the health pouring out of it. Strawberries that were surreal, and his fruit trees………….so loaded with fruit in the past that the branches hang down permanently. He has to prune them back so they don’t produce so much as he can’t give it all away. His chickens were like sent from heaven. Big and lovely colors and they were so happy. They would scratch big holes in the earth and roll around in them like a dog at the beach. I had been at a friends house earlier in the day and his chickens looked sick next to these beauties.
And here’s the deal…………….he does this all with little work, no watering, no feed for the poultry, no additives to the ground, NOTHING!!!! You can watch about how he grows his food (my new way this year too!) in the film and it’s fascinating. The chickens eat all the scraps from the house and garden. The break it all up in their pen and turn it into the most beautiful compost I’ve ever seen, and it doesn’t stink at all. He gets 2 dozen eggs a day and feels that is just a bonus to having the best composters right in his backyard.
This was just the best day ever and I encourage everyone to watch the film and seriously consider how you grow your food. Paul loves to give tours of his garden and he is the nicest man in the world. I feel so privileged to have spent this day with him.
Please watch this video –
it’s one of the best healthy solutions I’ve seen in a while.
Best of all, it costs nothing and is sweet simplicity itself!
Why vitamin D is crucial for vibrant health
Vitamin D, which is actually a pro-hormone, actually plays an important role in regulating the entire human genome. 1,25-dihidroxyvitamin D, also known as calcitriol, is responsible for unlocking the more than 2,700 genetic binding sites specifically designed for it that are located throughout the human body. And every single one of the genes affected by calcitriol plays a role in the onset of most major human diseases.
What this means is that vitamin D deficiency can cause all sorts of illnesses, including everything from simple colds and influenza to chronic diseases like heart failure and cancer. And since vitamin D can really only be obtained in adequate amounts through natural sunlight or supplementation with high doses of vitamin D3, it is crucial that every individual pay close attention to his or her vitamin D levels.
The best way to obtain vitamin D is through natural sunlight exposure. A fair-skinned person can produce enough vitamin D from about 15 minutes of direct sunlight exposure during the peak summer months, while a darker-skinned person may need as much as an hour-and-a-half of sunlight exposure. Sunscreens are designed to block out the UV rays responsible for vitamin D production in the skin, so it is important not to wear sunscreen when trying to obtain vitamin D from the sun (http://www.vitamindcouncil.org).
Another option is to supplement with vitamin D3. The government’s recommended daily amount (RDA) for vitamin D is still too low, as most people need to take anywhere from 1,000 – 10,000 international units (IU) of vitamin D3 every day to maintain adequate blood levels. If you are unsure about your vitamin D levels, you may wish to have a blood test taken to determine what is an appropriate amount of vitamin D with which to supplement
Learn more; full article here: http://www.naturalnews.com/036247_sun_exposure_pancreatic_cancer_risk_reduction.html#ixzz1yRZ7xZYU